🔗 Share this article

When compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. But, tucked near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest place achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary triumph.