The Christmas Tree Lights Up Once Again After the Outbreak of the Gaza War
Throughout a two-year period amid the Gaza war, all public celebrations marking the holiday season were cancelled in Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank. This city is where the faithful hold Jesus was born.
But, following the recent ceasefire, the holy city decided that now the festivities would make a comeback, as symbolised by the illumination of its traditional, giant Christmas tree in front of the ancient Church of the Nativity.
"We have endured two difficult years of silence; no Christmas, no jobs, no work," remarks Bethlehem Mayor Maher Canawati. "We're all living here on tourism and the tourist trade had fallen to nothing."
He accepts that the decision to restart festivities faced some controversy, given the ongoing hardship in Gaza – including for those in its tiny Christian community, who often have family ties in Bethlehem.
"Certain voices argue it's not appropriate while others contend it's appropriate," the mayor notes. "However, in my heart, I believed this constituted the right thing to take because Christmas should never be stopped or cancelled. This represents the light of hope for us."
A Spark of Celebration Reappears
Locals – both Christians and Muslims – pose for selfies in front of the tree decorated with gold and red ornaments at Manger Square. They are joined by a handful of foreign tourists.
Brightly coloured lights now decorate the streets and there are signs advertising holiday markets and festive events for children.
"We are delighted to have the tree, first thing, and to welcome visitors in Bethlehem and to be able to observe the holiday in its authentic spirit," says Bethlehem designer Nadya Hazboun.
"This is where it all started, so this is where we can send the message to the world about what Christmas truly should be about. And this year, if the season is calm, then I hope it will deliver a positive message for the entire world."
Economic Hopes and Challenges
The neighbouring towns of Beit Jala and Beit Sahour are also planning to illuminate Christmas trees in the coming days. Hotels – which have stood mostly vacant for the past two years – are seeing a rise in reservations from Arab citizens of Israel along with some foreign visitors.
One tourist from Russia, Angelica, is on her second pilgrimage to this region. "In my view every person should visit at least once in their life," she says.
"I wish many visitors will return soon because it's sad without many tourists. The sole aspect that's good is you don't have lengthy queues – you can come and see more things. On my prior visit it was necessary to wait in a queue for hours minimum."
Currently, the gift shops dotted around Bethlehem experience scant trade, and outside the cream-coloured walls of the Church of the Nativity, which date back to the Fourth Century, guides largely stand idle. Before the conflict, it was typically packed with people.
"This is a city for tourists; without tourism there is no life," laments a guide named Hamza. "We hope to see individuals returning like before: from Europe, the Middle Eastern region, America, Latin America and all over. We start with lighting the tree, and then we will wait."
The Persistent Economic Toll
In the past two years, joblessness has soared within Bethlehem. Since the lethal attacks led by Hamas in southern Israel during October 2023 that sparked the war, tens of thousands of Palestinian workers from the West Bank have been blocked from entering Israel and its settlements to work.
Meanwhile, government employees have received only partial wages from the Palestinian Authority (PA) – that administers areas within the West Bank. The Authority depends on tax revenues gathered by Israel, which it is withholding – to the tune of $1.76 billion, according to a UN agency.
Israel says it is holding the funds because the PA makes payments to Palestinian prisoners that incentivise attacks on Israelis. The PA – which has been under international pressure to make reforms – says it has lately modified its welfare system.
An Austere Holiday
The grim economic outlook implies that for many Palestinian Christians, despite the fact that there are currently public festivities as well as religious ceremonies, it will be an austere Christmas.
On the periphery of the square, a few customers wait to purchase hot balls of falafel from a row of shops.
"We're preparing for the holiday after one of our most challenging times as a Palestinian people and as a Christian community," states one restaurant owner, who runs Afteem, a long-established family-run eatery which has seen its income plummet. He notes that recently numerous families could not even afford falafel – a cheap, traditional food.
"The faithful will attempt to mark the occasion but based on their circumstances," Mr Salameh anticipates. "Someone who wants to bring their children to a festive event or a show or similar, they lack the funds to spend for this celebration."
Prayers for Peace and Prosperity
Within the grotto at the base of the Nativity Church, a resident accompanies a tour group from India, stooping down by a silver star that indicates the spot where it is said Jesus was born and lighting a candle close by.
With tensions still high across the region, Bethlehem residents say they are praying for peace – and hoping for visitors to return to the place where it is believed Christmas began.
