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One learned that the south Indian seasoning podi – a rough grind of fiery, coarsely crushed spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a sauce for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s personally dried peppers, but it would be charitable to say that I’m far less adventurous with chilli, so here I suggest red pepper flakes instead. It’s an extraordinarily good marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

You will need six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if made of wood, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 min
Cook half an hour
Serves a couple

14 ounces waxy potatoes, cut into 4cm chunks
8 ounces paneer, cut into 0.8-inch cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
Half a teaspoon fennel seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
One tsp black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
1½ teaspoon flaky sea salt, and additional for garnish
2 garlic pieces, prepared and minced
1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
Forty milliliters flavorless oil
One red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then halved crossways

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
Ten grams fresh mint leaves, minced
½ tsp flaky sea salt
3.5 ounces natural yoghurt

Cook the potatoes for nine minutes, then remove the water and allow to air dry for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for five minutes, then remove water and dry gently.

Add the spice seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the salt, chili flakes, and peppercorns, then crush or grind to a chunky blend.

Tip into a sizable container with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then lightly combine with the ingredients to coat. Thread the vegetables and cheese on to barbecue sticks, then transfer to a baking sheet and reserve for later – if desired, you can at this stage store in the fridge the skewers.

Stir all the sauce elements in a medium bowl. Preheat the broiler to its top temperature, then bake the sticks for a short time on each side, until the paneer is golden brown and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the fierceness of your grill, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Serve the skewers hot, sprinkled with a little more flaky salt and the sauce on the side for serving.